2016 Jan 28
This city has seen war and terror at its best, from losing its people, land and places of culture and heritage, Jaffna surely did see the repercussions of war and terror. For 30 years, the once colorful places of Hindu worship were tainted with shades of human mortality. The houses where the proud Tamils lived were bombed down with every passing night. Those that made a day’s living along the sides of the street in their Kataikal, with every gush of war, saw their buildings crumble to the ground, with bullet holes in them as if to symbolize the end of their journeys. This city has seen destruction. This city has seen rehabilitation. This city has seen both cries of fear and of joy, if you are a traveller, then Jaffna is a must if you want to have a closer look into the rich contrasting culture of the Tamil community in comparison to what you see in day to day Colombo. Known to be the 12th largest city in Sri Lanka and the second most populated city after commercial capital, Colombo, Jaffna is the capital city of the Northern Province in the island. Situated on the northern tip of Sri Lanka, Jaffna is predominantly a Tamil populated and cultured city. Historically during the time of Portuguese Imperialism in the nation, the Jaffna Port was considered a colonial port town that acted as a trade hub for merchants around the globe. The Portuguese established Jaffna City in 1621 as their colonial administrative center and was known in royal inscriptions and chronicles as Cinkainakar and in other historical sources as Yalpaanam and Yapaapatuna.
Considered as the cultural capital of Tamils in Sri Lanka, Jaffna has a bunch of places that would please the eyes and the mind of the average traveller. The Jaffna Library was considered to be one of the best in Asia. This library was said to have been burnt down to ashes by an organized mob of Sinhalese origin on a cold, dark night of the First of June, 1981. It was said to be one of the most violent forms of ethnic biblioclasm of the 21st Century because at the time, the library was said to have been containing over 97,000 books and manuscripts. Shockingly, this library is said to have been built first in 1933, from a modest beginning as a private collection and with the help of local citizens, became a fully-fledged library. On the night of June 1, the monumental and treasured Jaffna Library was set fire to and burnt to ashes. Now, most of it has been restored and is open for public viewing.
The second largest fort in the Island is the beautiful and buzzing Jaffna fort. Situated on the south side of the Jaffna peninsula at the water’s edge of the lagoon, the ancient fort in Jaffna was said to be one that was built by the Portuguese in 1619 and rebuilt and reconstructed by the Dutch in the latter half of the 17th century. The Jaffna Fort brought strategic importance to Sri Lanka as a trading hub back in the day. With the onset of the Sri Lankan civil war, the fort came under siege and was said to be the scene of pitched battles. It was recaptured by the Sri Lankan army in 1995 after a 50 day siege during Operation Riviresa. Today it remains garrisoned by a detachment of the Sri Lankan army with access to visitors.
The Nallur Kandasamy Kovil is said to date back to the times of the Tamil kings. Destroyed by the Portuguese in 1620, the kovil is said to have stood the test of times. The temple is a place of prime worship in the Jaffna Peninsula. The kovil is a front-running place of Hindu worship and is depicted by a golden arch and elaborate gopuram that attracts hundreds of pilgrims and worshippers. The infamous Nallur festival begins on the 15th of Aug and is said to last for about approximately 26 days. Situated and built upon the heart of Hindu worship and faith, the temple is a place you must explore if you are the curios traveller, one who is willing to grasp bits and pieces of this side of Sri Lankan culture and heritage. During the festival, nearly two hundred thousand visitors fled into the streets of the city and the walls of the temple from all around the island and from many countries around the world. It is said to be one that is dedicated towards Lord Murugan, and one that most Tamil Diasporas uphold as a highlight of socio, cultural and religious spirit of the people of the Northern part of the multi-cultural island.
During his second visit to Sri Lanka, Lord Buddha is said to have visited the ancient Nagadeepa Viharaya and thus is considered an important destination for Buddhist pilgrims. The viharaya was said to have been constructed by the two Naga kings at the time, Mahodara and Chulodara. Lord Buddha is said to have intervened during a dispute over the possession of a gem-studded throne. This precious and bejeweled throne was then said to have been offered to the Buddha and later enshrined in the stupa located next to the temple.
Places to stay
- Jetwing Jaffna
- P J Hotels
- Morgan’s
- Green Grass Hotel
Places to explore
- Jaffna Library
- Jaffna Fort
- Nallur Kovil
- Nagadeepa Purana Viharaya
- Keerimalai/Naguleeswaram Temple
- Casturina Beach
- Dambukola Patuna
- Kandarodei/ Kadurugoda temple
- Nainatheevu
- Sangilean Thoopu
An excuse that an average Sri Lankan would give if asked if they’ve been to Jaffna is either that there aren’t proper lodging or hotels or that the distance is a bit too tiring. Another answer that you are likely to get is that they are impending to visit the city before the terror of war, through the broken building and deserted areas of land, are fully restored. Jaffna is a completely different part to Sri Lanka, something very much contrast to Colombo or even central cities like Kandy or Galle. Jaffna is the home to the culture and true essence of the other ethnic group in Sri Lanka, the Tamils. Your ride around our beautiful pearl isn’t over if you haven’t seen what the area of the North has to offer, a beautiful twist indeed.
